Saturday, June 19, 2010

Rolex Jubilee Serti Dial On An Oyster Date Model With Diamonds.

The Rolex Jubilee Serti dial is found on later model Rolex watches.  These dials are usually machine engraved at the factory using a metal base and the markings are placed in areas where the dial has not been recessed.  These dials are very popular and greatly enhance the beauty of both men's and ladies watches.

The above dial is used on a Rolex Oyster Date Precision men's watch.  This dial was a very plain.  The diamonds were added along with the Serti markings.

One unique feature of the Serti style dial is its ability to change colors depending on the angle it is viewed from.

This shows the different colors these dials can display.  The base color is a light blue color and from different angls it can also appear to be a silver color.

This picture shows the dial installed on the Rolex watch.  This Rolex Oyster Date model has a plastic crystal and a stainless steel case.

This is another view which shows the unique color change of the Serti dial.

Looking at the Jubilee Serti dial mounted onto the watch showing the color change from light blue to almost a silver color.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Waltham 18 Size 14kt. US Assay Fancy Hunter Case Pocket Watch.

These fancy hunter case pocket watches are very rare items.  It has been estimated that very few of these have survived as many of them over the years have been melted down and sold for scrap metal values.

This amazing case uses multi-colored gold.  Note the detail of the horse along with the flowers around the horse.  The outer edge of the case is highly engraved.

The eye of the horse also has a small diamond that has been bead set into it.  There are three covers on this case.  There is one cover that goes directly over the movement which is designed to help keep the dust out of the movement.

This watch has a double sunk dial that is made out of porcelain.  Notice the delicate hands.  This dial is unique as it also has the "military" time marked on the dial below the Roman numerals.  This watch is lever set.  The lever is located towards the bottom of the picture.

This picture shows the Karat gold markings of the case.  It reads that it is Warranted 14K U. S. Assay.  Below the markings is the case serial number which really means nothing.  Case records were never maintained by case companies.

This view shows the 18 size Appleton, Tracy and Co. movement that was made by Waltham.  This is a 15 jewel movement that features a Safety Pinion which protects the gear train in the event the mainspring breaks.  This movement is also Adjusted.

Howard 16 Size RailRoad Chronometer Series 11. Mainspring Info. Listed Also.

The Howard 21 Jewel RailRoad Chronometer is a very nice pocket watch. These were actually made by the Keystone Howard Co.

The dial on this watch is a true Montgomery style dial which has the minutes numbered around the outer chapter of the porcelain dial.

These dials are rather unique as they snap onto the movement.  There are no dial legs that hold the dial in place.

This shows the back of the Howard snap-on dial.  You can see the lip that snaps onto the movement.

This shows the dial side of the Howard movement.  You can also see the setting mechanism.  The hour wheel has been removed.

This view shows the upper plates of the movement with all of the RailRoad markings.  These movements are very simple where one plate mounts over the pivots of the gear train.  These watches are adjusted to 5 positions.

Here you can see the RailRoad markings.  This Howard has a unique serial number for those that like that sort of thing as I do.

There is only one minor flaw in the construction of these watches.  This is the click that engages the ratchet wheel when the watch is being wound.  This is a long flat spring that is mounted with one screw that is on the side of the movement.  This click fits between the top of the mainspring barrel and the ratchet wheel.  Many times this will slip out of position.  When this happens it can prevent the mainspring barrel from turning which stops the movement due to lack of power.

For the most part, these are really nice pocket watches that function very well and keep very good time.  These watches use an HR white alloy mainspring.  The HR number is SA-353.  The Howard factory mainspring number is 329 and it has the TEE end.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Lord Elgin New Way To Tell Time.

These watches were made in about 1959 by Elgin.  They were sold under the Lord Elgin name.  They were advertised as "The Modern Way To Tell Time."  The movement has two disks that are made of plastic and painted with the numbers.  At some point in time someone tried to remove the minute disk and it was damaged and then glued into position.

The movement has 21 jewels and is adjusted.

Case is gold filled and has a thick plastic crystal over the date wheels.

The inside of the case has two spacers or rings that hold the movement in place.  One is shown in this picture.

This shows the movement installed into the case.  The second retainer ring is shown around the movement and the crown is now installed.

Here you can see the two date wheels through the plastic window or crystal.

Another view of the watch with the date wheels showing.